Beauty

Clamshell Beauty

Lighting setup

One round beauty dish above the lens, silver reflector below — classic clamshell with a single strobe.

Classic pattern — Clamshell beauty

Lighting breakdown

1
Beauty Dish (Key)
Directly above the lens axis on a boom, angled down ~30° onto the face. The round dish is the only strobe — its core adds polished specular sheen while the soft edge keeps transitions gentle.
Round beauty dish, gridded · 0.6
Beauty dish
2
Lower Fill
Low and on-axis, angled up into the jaw and under-eye to bounce dish light back and add the second crescent catchlight. Keep the reflector 1 – 2 stops under the dish — no second lamp required.
Silver reflector (below) · 0.42
Reflector

Head-and-shoulders beauty portrait of a woman whose dark auburn hair is tied back in a bun, lit softly from straight on so the face carries almost no side shadow.

Base setup

Light above, light below. Skin in a soft vise.

Front elevation

Complete setup · 1 light + 1 grip

Learning path

This setup appears in curated assignments — continue the sequence when you are ready.

Step 7/8Beginner portrait lighting
Add a second source that has no power cable — a reflector under the chin closes the ratio and puts the second catchlight in.
Light Builder Next: Dramatic Portrait →

Lights: 1
Contrast: 2:1
Catchlight: Round over crescent
Key position: Directly above, on-axis
Mood: Luxury / Soft / Commercial
Quality: Soft Light / Diffused
Subject: Female Beauty
Environment: Studio / White Seamless

Mood variations

Portrait subject — Lower Fill Off — Butterfly variation of Clamshell Beauty. — Lower Fill Off — Butterfly
Pull the lower reflector. The beauty dish alone stays on-axis — under-chin, jaw, and neck deepen about one stop while forehead and cheekbones hold. That is the clamshell becoming a butterfly.

Final look

Base setup

The fill from below lifts shadows under the eyes and jaw, smoothing skin texture, while the dish on top adds a crisp specular sheen. The stacked catchlights read as glamour.

Camera & framing

Exposure

ISO

ISO 100

Shutter

1/160s

Aperture

f/8 – f/11

Lens & framing

Lens

85 – 105mm portrait

Camera height

Eye level

Framing

Head and shoulders, full face in frame — chin, forehead, and both ears visible; comfortable headroom; no edge crop

Try these settings → Key : fill ratio →

Key notes

1Stack both sources on the lens axis: dish high and angled down ~30°, fill source low and angled up — the subject sits in the "clam" between them.
2Set the lower fill 1 – 2 stops under the dish; equal power kills every shadow and looks flat and lifeless.
3Lift the chin slightly so both catchlights land in the eyes — a round dish reflection over a soft crescent.
4A beauty dish gives crisp, modern skin; swap in a softbox for a softer, more forgiving editorial finish.
5Without the lower reflector the dish alone is butterfly light: under-chin and neck deepen while the forehead stays keyed. That opposite frame is held until a registered pair reads clearly — Base still teaches the clam.